Nissan L28ET Engine Build for Reference Info

Ended up going with the 7M-GTE instead

Bottom End Block with oil adapter plate. The red is where the extra metal is. Click the cranks for more info. Powder coated oil pan. B&M Polished SuperCooler w/ 3/8" NPT to -10 AN fittings. The engine is completely apart now and ready for machine work. Everything looks well. I've heard this is commen for even very high milaged L series engines, but am still amazed getting to see it for myself. I took out my die grinder and hacked away at the crude casting lines. This should prevent cracking of the block, and should prevent any metal breaking off inside while the engine is at high RPMs. A Dremel with the bendable extention can be used to get those hard to get to places. Before assembly I will be using a thick paint to help oil run off inside, and will further prevent metal chips. I tapped and threaded the oil galleries for a 3/8" NPT plugs. This will make it easier to clean out the oil galleries real well before assembly. I have decided to stroke the engine and over bore it a bit. To do this I'm using a early 80's Nissan Maxima diesel crank (LD28), and a set of 240Z 9mm connecting rods. The `73 240Z rods are used because they have 9mm main bolts while others have 8mm main bolts. The L24 rods are longer than the L28 rods so this makes for less movement at the pivot point of piston and connecting rod, this helps us get a more rational rod/stroke ratio. The longer rod will also raise the dwell time where the piston stays at the top. This makes for a larger/longer burn, and allows the crank to turn a couple more degrees over before the piston is pushed back down. This puts more leverage on the crank, unltimately giving you more power. Only the `73 240Z had the 9mm rods, engine numbers above L24-096180 use the 9mm main bolts. To cool engine oil I'm using an Earl's sandwitch oil plate adapter to feed an aluminum polished B&M SuperCooler. AN -10 stainless steal braided lines will be used, along with Earl's fitings.

Intake/Exhaust The Non-EGR, Webbed, Intake manifold Mercedes TB 300ZX Stock Turbo SS Down Pipe Since the carbo tech kit is no longer availible, and I now know that fuel injection is the best idea. I'll be going with some largers injectors than stock, a programable ECU from WolfEMS, a water cooled intersection stock turbo, and a high flow front mount Mitsubishi Starion intercooler. I found a P87 Non-EGR, webbed intake manifold. It is the federal emisions one that was available on some 280ZX's. Found this Through Z Parts. I have shaved and smoothed as much as I can and will be shipping it off to Jet-Hot to get it coated with their Jet-Hot 1300. This should give a great lasting polish, and will greatly reduce intake manifold temperatures. I had a custom stainless steel, mandrel bent down pipe made. Thank you Scottie! It has a hole for the O2 sensor, and bolt right up to the back of a stock 280ZX Turbo. These are the most popular bolt on Throttle Bodies chosen when building a L28 turbo (bolt up to the intake manifolds with no modification): Stock 280ZX Turbo Throttle Body is 50mm, a Z31 300ZX NA has a 55mm TB, and a 240SX TB is 60mm. The 300ZX TBs can be found cheaply, and are easy to find. Both TB's use a cable type throttle linkage, and will require some work to be useful. Scottie used a 200SX cable to help get it working correctly. Went shopping through some parts at the bone yard found a `74 V8 Mercedese 450SE Throttle body and it's 65MM!!! See picture link for more information. The Mercedes TB can be modified easily to work with a Nissan intake manifold by bring the 4 bolt holes in towards the center until they line up. It looks questionable at first as to if there is enough meat on the intake manifold to port it out to 65MM, but it's been done without adding metal. Ended up getting a turbo off of a `85 300ZX. `85-`89 300ZX Turbos bolt right on to the stock 280ZX Turbo exhaust manifold with no modification, and the center section is water cooled, while the stock 280ZX Turbo is not. Use the adapter plate that bolts up to the back of the turbine housing that contains the waste gate door. The 300ZX has the waste gate door built into its cast down pipe, which doesn't have the necesary bends to fit well in a S30 engine compartment. The water cooled intersection can be swapped in with the rest of the turbo parts from the 280ZX, or you can use the whole turbo out of the 300ZX. The 300ZX turbine/compressor are slightly smaller (like 1mm) than the ones in the the 280ZX, but the performance lose in the slightly smaller turbo is not noticeable.

Fuel Delivery System Supra 440cc/min Fuel Inejectors Click here to see Pete's turbo 240Z Pete Sanders has helped me out by providing his drawing of his fuel delivery system to me. I like what he's done with his car, and hope to have my fuel delivery system setup as good as his. The stock 240Z fuel tank was not designed for the high volume/pressure fuel injected engines require. A fuel injection fuel tank has baffles to prevent the fuel pump from picking up air. A fuel injection system requires a high presured fuel line with no air to work correctly. In a carborated system the air that is pumped to the carbs is seporated in the carb bowls. Pete plugged up the old return line on his tank, then used the old feed line as the new return line. The tank's drain plug was then used as the new feed line. The stock 280ZX Turbo fuel injectors flow is 259cc/min which isn't going to do the trick for my engine (They top out at around 230hp at the crank). I picked up some `87-`92 Toyota Supra Turbo fuel injectors. These are 440cc/min high impedence injectors, great for a ~3.0L turbo charged motor. These fit well in my intake manifold, almost like they were made for it. I have to figure out a way to secure them down, which will envolve machining some aluminum clamps that can be bolted to the intake manifold.

Cylinder Head Ground/Polished Valves I have P90A cylinder head. This head was only available on the `83 280ZX Turbo. It is different from other L series heads, because it uses hydraulic lifters. This rids of having to do valve adjusting, and is much quieter than a solid lifter head. The head is great for a daily driver that won't ever see a large cam, or power over 6,000 RPMs. I think I will put this one back in the corner and look for a P90 head that doesn't have the hydraulic lifters that have a tendency to bleed down. Both P90 and P90a heads have 53.5cc chambers, steel valve-seats, nearly strait intake runners, and square exhaust ports. After scavenging the bone yards for a couple months I came accross a P90 head that I will be using. The head is identicle to the P90A in combustion, valves, and flow, it just has solid lifters. As of right now I'm sticking with stock valves, but am considering going larger on the exhaust ports. It's been bead blasted, and the stock valves have been polished. The 'E', 'I', and Nissan sybols were ground off before polishing. I've ground out some of the casting marks in the ports, nothing crazy though.

Left Side of the engine before disasembly Right Side

In the Beginning August 5th of 2000 I bought a `83 280ZX Turbo block from a wrecking yard (Sunrise Nissan). I have no idea as to how many miles are on the block, but it looks to be in good condition, and the motor turns over by hand. The `83 280ZX Turbo came with a P90A hydraulic lifter cylinder head. I thought at first that this would be a great idea to run this head because it doesn't require adjustments, and is much quieter running than a solid lifter head. After talking with some other guys that have built a powerfull L6 turbo motor I am convinced that the only way that I'll see horse power above 6,000RPM is go the solid lifter route. So, I picked up a P90 head, which has the solid lifters. Both are exactly the same in every aspect except for the lifter differences. These heads have square exhaust ports, squished combustion chambers (compared to other Nissan L series heads), and the port flows are very strait. All of this adds up to a great performing turbo head. The idea of this build will be to get as much power as I can while keeping it streetable. This means that it can't over heat in city driving, it has to idle fairly smooth, get decent gas milage when I don't have my foot in it, and it must be pretty reliable. I will keep records, and pictures of everything that I do so that anyone else can get pointers as to how someone can build up one of these engines to produce nearly twice as much horse power as they did out of the factory.